Monday, November 21, 2005

Flip Cup Championships, Bollywood Bash & Reaching Out Conference (11/05)

The past few weeks have been pretty intense - loads of school work, tons of club commitments and lots of time spent reflecting on summer internships and future career prospects. After hearing that load of nonsense, you should understand why I need to get away from the b-school bubble and act like a fool more often.

Diversion #1 ::: Section Flip Cup Championships - Despite some serious shit talking and intimidation tactics, we came up a bit short. And by a bit, I mean a lot. We lost in the third round after getting a buy in the first! However, in true Big Dog fashion, we proceeded to play another six sets of matches just for good measure. Let's just say by the end of the night I had cups on my ears and had to pull a "look over there" to the ladies pictured above, as I ran out the door for my bed.

Diversion #2 ::: Bollywood Bash - In honor of all my South Asian peeps back in NYC, I decided to step up and put my skills to work in the India Business Club's Annual Bollywood Bash. For two weeks leading up to the event, I practiced night and day (well, not really) honing my Garba / Raas moves and providing comic relief for the other members of the dance squad. When the big night finally came, I gave a Kirk Gibson-esque performance by overcoming a serious injury I sustained in the flag football playoffs the week before (read: i'm old and bruise easily). Immediately following the show, I was wisked off stage and asked to co-star alongside Shahrukh Khan in the next Bollywood blockbuster. Actually, after the show, I stuffed my face full of samosas and naan and proceded to sweat off 5 lbs dancing to bhangra the rest of the night.

Diversion #3 ::: Reaching Out Conference - After making it through an interview, a case competition and a career expo, I was ready to have some fun. Yeah, there were some panel discussions and a few minutes spent networking... but mostly, this was about hanging with my peeps including Jizza, who was in town from LA. Just our luck - DJ Abel of Alegria fame was in town for one night only! Unfortunately most of the pictures from the hours spent on the dancefloor are not fit for print so I decided to include the one of my ghost jumping around the hotel somewhere around 4:30-5am. All this, while the entire room was being rearranged by my new buddy, Beau... and here I just wanted to "break bread!" BAG.

That's about it for now... I really need to pack since I'm off to NYC tomorrow. I'm so excited to see everyone and roam the streets all weekend! After that, its back for finals and then a trip to Steamboat Springs, Colorado for a week of skiing!

Tuesday, November 01, 2005

College Football & Halloween (10/29/05)

Ahhhh, what a great time of year... college football and Halloween! Nothing like a full day of tailgating at the Michigan- Northwestern game, enjoying brats, beers and the prospect of defending our higher ranking in the college football polls. Well, so much for winning the game... at least we had the brats and beers! And, it's always entertaining watching the 30-yr old, future business leaders of America do keg stands in the parking lot. After hitting the tailgate for a few hours I went back home, watched five minutes of the game, took a nap and prepared for Hoot for the Homeless, our Halloween charity event.

Unfortunately having midterms last week cramped my costume efforts a bit, but luckily some good buddies had ready-made Daphne and Fred get-ups for me and B.LEE to jump into. Most people recognized us despite the racial disparities and, all in all I think China Fred is preferable to the real thing! We even found a drunk Skooby at the party to chase after! The night ended with us singing our hearts out to Thriller and Living on a Prayer (what else?!?!) at world famous, Evanston hotspot, THE KEG. Round about 2:30am, I realized I was already hungover and that it was time to go home. Let's just say flag football at 10am was not pretty, but we got the win anyway! Happy Halloween everyone! ***And, a special shout out to the glowborine posse in NYC who made sure I got a ton of laughs that night but no sleep. xoxox

Tuesday, October 25, 2005

2005 Move Against AIDS!!! (10/26/05)

Once again, it's time... to shake my booty for a cure!

Move Against AIDS, the 5-hour dance-a-thon to benefit Gay Men's Health Crisis is back again this year. Last fall I raised $2,220 -- making me the #18 fundraiser overall -- THANKS TO THE INCREDIBLE GENEROSITY OF MY FRIENDS. I felt strongly that my new location should not be a factor in whether or not I support this amazing event again this year. Since I can't be in NYC in early December (I'll be taking my final exams), I've decided to try and organize a crew of friends in Chicago for my own little, virtual dance-a-thon. As most of you know, I don't need an excuse to get out and dance for a few hours so I PROMISE, you will still get your money's worth!!

As you all know, this is a very important issue to me and this fundraiser serves as a way to send a message to the world that AIDS is still a crisis and to raise money for GMHC, the nation's first and most comprehensive AIDS service organization. GMHC provides direct, life-sustaining services to people who really need the help. Did you know that in the US half of all new infections occur in people under the age of 25 and that one in 50 men in Manhattan is HIV+? That's enough to make me wanna get off my ass and do something about this awful disease.

CLICK HERE TO DONATE!

Sunday, October 16, 2005

We Came to Make Party ::: Bill Patrick & Lee Burridge @ SoundBar (10/14/05)

Finally... a well deserved, crazy night out in Chicago! It only took Bill Patrick and Lee Burridge playing at SoundBar and a good buddy in town from NYC to bring me out of retirement. What a night! As expected, Billy and Lee tore the place to shreds and me and the crew rocked out on the dancefloor all night. We even got to "ride the white horse," woot!
A special shout-out goes to the Germans who "came to make party" as well as the bschool heads who made a stellar showing. A pleasure rockin out with all of you... finally! And, of course I have to give all the love in the world to Steve who let Nora and I take the party to another level at afterhours. There's nothing quite like spinning records that are still in the sleeve! Afterhours was sponsored by Urban Promotions...ha!

Nora and I finished off the weekend with a bit of sleep, some bloody marys, fish tacos, darts, cheesy dancefloor antics and some flag football. What more could I ask for? Well... Nora, could you come back next weekend? Until next time! xoxo

Sunday, September 18, 2005

Orientation (aka CIM Week) (9/18/05)

Finally, after almost two and half weeks, CIM Week is finally coming to an end...thank god! There's only so much forced teamwork, cohesion and binge drinking in the name of "section pride" a person can take!

For those who don't know, when you arrive at business school, they divide you into sections, give you dorky names, provide a constant supply of alcohol and force you to compete in various activities. It only took a few days to realize they're just testing out their latest research on teamwork, networks and organizational behavior using us newbies as their guinea pigs. Oh well, at least I'm not at work.

I'm a BIG DOG (defending CIM Week Champions) and our moto is "WITH GREAT PRIVILEGE COMES GREAT RESPONSIBILITY" which basically means "if you're a Big Dog, you have to win and you have to drink." I've been trying my best to Big Dog-it, but it hasn't been easy. Below are the highlights from the past few weeks...just to give you an idea of what that $130,000 is going toward.

*Cheer Contest - In a nutshell, 500 drunk 28-year olds standing on the chairs in the auditorium yelling derogatory cheers at one another. The Jive Turkeys chanted "mutts, mutts, you sniff butts" at us while we lifted our legs in their direction as if we were pissing on them. Classy, I know. Big Dogs got 1st place...'nuff said!

*Name Game - Each person has to memorize the names of all 70 students in their section which would be hard enough without the international students... I'm still having trouble with some of the names! Big Dogs did alright...let's just say we were lucky to have a guy in our section with a photographic memory!

*Chicago Day - We took a break from the madness to actually do something productive... community service. My group was assigned to clean-up the playground at Cabrini Green, one of the most notorious housing projects in all of Chicago. I spent the afternoon picking up mounds of glass and dime bags (including one that was full!) The Big Dogs should have earned some additional CIM Week points for that score.

*Talent Show - After such a selective application process you'd think the people who get into business school might actually have some real talent. Nope. Our entry consisted of jugglers, mediocre singers and pie eaters. I was supposed to do some doggie dance and the worm at the end of our skit but we ran long and it didn't make it in. What a travesty! The good news is we spent the hour before we went on finishing a keg and pounding shots of vodka so despite our terrible performance we all felt just great afterward! We even carried the empty keg above our heads into the auditorium just for good measure. Big Dogs got 7th place...it was ugly but at least we were drunk!

*Olympics - Our chance to redeem ourselves. We spent the day outside competing in relay races, memory games, the spider web and dizzy bat. One of my comrades even dislocated his elbow in the name of a Big Dog victory! Our performance most of the day was mediocre at best but it all came down to the marquee event...the four-way Tug of War!!!!! Let's just say it was probably the most painful and intense two minutes of competition I've seen in a very long time. At one point we were inches from a win and all of the sudden the momentum swung in the opposite direction and we almost lost. Just when I thought we didn't have anything left to give, I looked around and saw everyone screaming at the top of their lungs (mostly obscenities for encouragement), we yanked the rope into our quadrant and pulled out a victory. If you have a minute, download the video at the link below (it takes awhile but is well worth it to see the look of excruciating pain on my face). The Tug of War win was enough to get us 3rd place in the Olympics...we're right back in it!

http://www.savefile.com/projects/286908

With only the attendance competition left, the Big Dogs are sitting pretty (tied for 2nd and only 5 points behind the leaders). If everyone can manage to make it to class this week, we just might repeat as CIM Week Champions. I'm sure the anticipation is just killing you! Stay tuned!

Sunday, September 04, 2005

Peru ::: Inca Trail & Machu Picchu (9/4/05)


All good things come to an end and so is the case with my 2005 Anti-Reality Tour. This year has been one amazing adventure after the other and luckily I got to end it on a high note this past week in Peru.

Days 1 & 2 ::: Me and 27 other Kellogg students (and significant others) left Evanston last Sunday for a pre-orientation trip to hike the Inca Trail and visit Machu Picchu. We left Evanston around 2:30pm and arrived in Cusco, Peru via Newark and Lima about 24 hours later. After quickly dropping off our bags, showering and drinking some coca tea (to help prevent altitude sickness), a small group of us decided to explore the streets of the ancient Inca capital by foot. All those years of Spanish classes finally came in handy as we cruised the markets, chatted with locals and sat down for our first Peruvian meal. Thank god it all came rushing back to me otherwise we might have unknowingly eaten guinea pig, a favorite of the locals. Instead we nibbled on arroz con curry, sopa vegetal, papas fritas, berenjena, ensalada y lentejas (and don't worry, I did get more adventurous!)

Day 3 ::: We woke up bright and early, organized our packs and drove two hours by bus to kilometer 82 of the Inca Trail. We met up with our leaders, cooks and porters (there were more of them than us!), snapped a few pictures for posterity and set off on the trail. The first day is supposed to be a warm-up, which means we hiked about seven miles on fairly flat terrain, stopping along the way to see a few ruins, drink some water, take in the spectacular views and play some high altitude stickball. One of my classmates was pitcher for the Cal baseball team so we decided to make a "tape ball" and have some fun. I promptly took his fastball out of the park with my bamboo walking stick while a mule played first base. Oh yeah! That night we camped in Huayllabamba.

Day 4 ::: Dead Woman's Pass. I'd been hearing about this part of the trail for months and one of my friends had even gone as far as to say it was harder than the NYC marathon. Just over seven miles long and about 5.5 miles up. Yes, I said up. It's also the highest point on the Inca Trail at just over 13,600 feet, which means altitude sickness and fatigue can be a real problem. Don't get me wrong, it was pretty damn hard, however I was pleasantly surprised at how well my body responded to the challenge especially considering I'd been on the no-workout workout for over 6 months. I was the second one to the top and despite a pounding headache I decided to indulge in a shot of homemade whiskey with one of the trail guides I met at the top. After basking in the glory of our accomplishment for quite a while, we made our way back down that damn mountain to our campsite in Pacaymayo. Everyone was pretty beat that night so after dinner we called it a night (8pm) and tried to get a good night's sleep while rain pounded our tents the entire night.

Day 5 ::: All along the guides told us that we'd be fine if we could just make it to Dead Woman's Pass. They failed to mention that the third day of hiking would be 10 miles and a lot of up and down including 2,400 downhill steps in the afternoon alone. You're probably thinking that going downhill is a helluva lot better than going uphill but really quite the opposite is true. While the ascent is painful, the descent puts a ton of stress on the knees and is draining mentally. You really need to focus and take care with each step to be sure you don't slip on loose rocks and/or gravel.

After we made it through the first and most treacherous half of the hike, a small group of people started to run down the trail with one of our guides. Me and a few others caught up with them and all shit broke loose. Ten of us and the guide ditched the rest of the group and bolted down a very steep section of switchbacks. It got really crazy and to be honest, quite dangerous as people jockeyed for position and left the trail for shortcuts between switchbacks. I wound up blindly following someone through a shortcut and sliding ten feet down the mountain on my ass, thankfully in a spot that was loose dirt and not rocks. I quickly bounced back up, looked at the shocked faces of the people who had lost the lead and took off in the front pack trying to hold back laughter about what had just happened. When we arrived at our camp we laughed our asses off and realized we were pretty lucky to have come away from it all injury free.

Day 6 ::: We woke up at 4:45am to have breakfast, tip our porters and try to make it to the Sun Gate for sunrise. We left a bit late but it didn't really matter because there was cloud cover when we arrived at the Sun Gate around 7:30am. Thankfully we waited it out because the sight of Machu Picchu once the clouds rose was absolutely stunning. We hiked the last mile to the complex and then took a 2.5 hour tour of the major areas. After the tour we drove to the nearby town of Aguas Calientes for lunch and then took the train back to Cusco. We had a group dinner that included rocoto relleno (a deep fried green peppers stuffed with meat and vegetables) and monster shots of tequila. After dinner we stopped at a bar to throw back a few pitchers of local beer before finishing off the night around 3am at a disco called Mama Africa.

Days 7 & 8 ::: Despite being a bit tired and hungover, we managed to get up and do some last minute sight-seeing and shopping around Cusco before catching our flight to Lima. We had a long layover so our tour company picked us up at the airport and took us to see the beach and to a very nice restaurant for dinner. Our guide told us all about Lima and it's odd climate - apparently it's only sunny three months of the year and the rest of the time it's overcast and 99% humidity... but, it hasn't rained since 1972! And apparently the surf swells up to 7 meters in the towns just below Lima. We got to see a few brave souls in the water during our stop-off.

The highlight of dinner was my delicious ceviche (cold raw seafood marinated in lemon juice, peppers and onions) and getting a chance to finally hear everyone tell the group their personal stories (during the trip we weren't supposed to discuss where we were from, where we went to college or what work we'd been doing). There were definitely some surprises! After our final meal together we left for the Lima airport and started our 24-hour journey back home to Evanston. What an amazing trip and summer! For the full photo album go to (and don't worry, it's only 125 picutres):

http://amazon.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=1379kkan.1bd10lzv&x=0&y=-hysdlw
So I guess that's all folks! I gotta get some sleep and get ready for orientation on Tuesday. Lata!

Saturday, August 27, 2005

Settling In (8/27/05)

Ahhhh, what a difference a week makes... I'm finally feeling settled in my new digs (see picture). This week's "excitement" included a pilgrimage to IKEA, the arrival of the movers, two keg parties, some beach time, my first run in five months and a few trips to downtown Chicago. One of the trips was to meet-up with one of my old college buddies, Ernie, who was in town for business. I couldn't have caught him at a better time as he was still glowing from the birth of his twin boys, Ernie and Cole, on August 8th - they were both over 7 lbs! God bless Kathleen for birthin those babies (and putting up with big Ernie)!!!

My second trip downtown was last Wednesday night to catch the final SummerDance party in Grant Park featuring DJs Terry Hunter and Farley "Jack Master" Funk, two Chicago deep house legends. It was a PS1-type setting with a Body&Soul crowd and let me tell you, the place was a-rockin! A few thousand people were jammed in there, hootin and hollerin with their hands in the air. I even had a few b-school friends with me willing to brave the dancefloor - what a great introduction to Chicago house! After Grant Park we headed to the Mamby party @ Moonshine to catch DJs Diz, Justin Long and Mazi and to meet up with NYC party people Steve (aka nyc420) and Eric (aka bassboy). Moonshine is a cool little spot (with GOOD pizza!) that, within in a matter of minutes, turns from restaurant to bumpin lounge. We sat down to eat around 9:30pm and by the time we had finished our meal the place was packed with a line around the corner and people dancing between the tables. I got my groove on for a few hours and then decided to call it quits when my ride was leaving around 12:30am. Listen kids, before I get any comments, this ain't NYC and I'm still trying to keep it under control (-:

That's all for now... I gotta pack for Peru (I leave tomorrow)! Lata!

Friday, August 19, 2005

Grad School Grumblings (8/19/05)

Oh boy...how quickly things can change!! One minute, you're partying like a rock star with your friends in NYC...the next, you're clipping coupons and deciding between a Whopper and the new Chicken Fries at Burger King. Yup, that's what I've been reduced to here in Evanston, during my first week as a grad student. And by the way, I got the Chicken Fries. Not bad except I had to eat them in the company of five random people chain smoking in the restaurant...disgusting! Oh how I miss the smoking ban.

As you may have guessed, I'm poor. And by poor I mean I have no money. Like zero. Turns out that my tuition and rent are due the first week of September but my loans don't get deposited into my bank account until the first day of class, which is a month away. Not sure exactly how that's going to work out. I'm looking for some sympathy (at least a little bit) or better yet a loan. Somehow I'm guessing I won't get either after spending all of the last year on one continuous vacation while the rest of you suckers were slaving away. LA, Santa Fe, Miami, Mexico, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Peru (next week)... no wonder I have no money. Did I just ask for a loan?! Don't worry, I'll smack myself for you.

So cash is probably a stretch, but maybe you'll consider sending goodies? You know, food or maybe even toiletries, hair/skin care products... especially the ones that I can no longer afford such as Aveda Curl Cream (cough cough, JD) and Burt's Bees Carrot Lotion (cough cough, Mom). Also, I saw some of those Ugly Dolls in a store window and decided I'd really like to cuddle with one at night. Either one of those or a body pillow (cough cough, anyone that's still reading). Actually, I'll take pretty much anything you want to send. And no, I'm not kidding.

UPPERS
I got my student ID and it's a HOT picture! (Now if only someone beside me and the dude at the gym could see it!) Not that I've actually been to the gym yet.

DOWNERS
The bars close EARLY here... like 1am early! I'm not sure what's worse, the jet lag after flying from Hong Kong to New York or adjusting to Evanston Everyone Is In Bed Really Early Time (EEIIBRET) from NYC Crack Time (NYCCKT).

There is not a decent slice of pizza to be had in all of Evanston and certainly nothing after 1am when I'm walking home from the EEIIBRET bars. For the love of God, how do these people live without pizza?

My shit still has not arrived from NYC which means I'm sleeping on an air mattress in an empty room. Granted, the room is 3x as big as any bedroom I ever had in NYC, but its still an empty room. Now you know why I want one of those Ugly Dolls to cuddle with!

Alright, that's all she wrote. I gotta hit the beach. Lata!

Thursday, August 18, 2005

Goodbye NYC ::: PS1, 311 Church & The Balcony (8/6/05)

What a perfect way to say goodbye to NYC! When we rolled out to PS1 around 3:30pm, the weather could not have been better. We grabbed some drinks, met up with some more friends and decided to check out the museum for awhile. Shortly after we came back out, there was a hysterical incident involving a brownie, a bathroom attendant and some fungi. Then Stacey Pullen took over for the opening DJ and unleashed the fury. He played an incredible set and had us all rockin out in the bleachers... especially that Snardy, he's so hot this season! The next hour or two was all about styrofoam, beach balls, beats and beers. Josh Wink came on after Stacey and brought the energy down a bit but still played some funky tunes. A little while later, armed with a pocket full of drink tickets, me and the brownie bandit headed down to the bar. They were out of cups which led to a huge fight with the bartender... but somehow we still managed to walk away with water bottles full of beer. Must have been our stunning good looks. Blinded by the high of our victory at the bar, we immediately turned and asked someone (ummmm, that's a security guard) to take a picture of us and our illegal beer water bottles. Smooth.

After PS1, the party continued at 311 Church Street where host, Stadenco, and others threw down great music for the masses all night long. Sometime around sunrise, a small group of dedicated soldiers left the loft and headed to Chelsea to spend a last few hours hanging on The Balcony listening to the hosts' favorite Mylo mix. And then sometime around 9am, like all other good things, the party (and my run in NYC) had to come to an end. Sunday morning on The Balcony with ten good friends and sex toys... I wouldn't have it any other way (-:

Thanks to all the incredible people who made my last few years in NYC one loooong and memorable party. Until next time!

Tuesday, August 16, 2005

Summer in SE Asia ::: Part II

Day 16 (7/16/05) ::: Mekong River Delta - here we come! We got up early and set out on a 2 hour bus ride to the city of My Tho, where we boarded a boat for our journey on the upper Mekong River. It was pretty cool to navigate the very narrow canals, seeing life on the river... along the way we stopped at 4 islands - Dragon, Unicorn, Phoenix, Turtle - to see plantations and sample coconut candies, yummy tea with honey straight from the hive and fresh tropical fruits from the local orchards. We also got to hear some traditional music from the villagers ... mostly adorable little girls. There was also a huge boa constrictor being passed around (skipped that, thanks) as well as a piece of the bee hive. Snapped a few pics for posterity and headed back home by way of a bonsai farm. Didn't even notice any bonsais but they did have some rad monkeys doing some crazy ass flips around the cage! One even came over to the side and literally swiped a juice box out of a kids hands and started drinking it from the straw....we were DYING!! Conditions for the animals were less than stellar though, which was a big downer. That night we met up with a friend of Hilary's living in HCMC at Nguyen Du Brauhof Restaurant and Beer Garden and had a pretty uneventful dinner until four drunken assholes (older men) started gawking and trying to have a conversation we weren't interested in. After numerous attempts to move them away from our table and shut them up, we tried to get the wait staff to step in and help out. They were pitiful - cowering behind a pillar and running away when one of the men waved them off. We demanded our check and then threatened to leave w/o paying ... it was quite a scene. Finally wasted man #1 said he'd pay our bill as he continued to try and speak to us. We took him up on his offer and ran out the door. As if that weren't enough drama for the evening... a moto tried to speed between the cab and the curb right as we were exiting in front of our guesthouse... nice move! Jamie basically clothes-lined the moto with the cab door. Everyone was ok and we laughed about it later but it could have been quite bad. We ran up the stairs and climbed into bed before anyone got hurt!

Day 17 ::: We took a tour bus to the Cu Chi Tunnels, the massive underground tunnel system the Viet Cong used to evade the French and Americans during their respective wars. I actually crawled down two levels (didn't make it to the third) - it was so hot and so small and that's even with the extra room they carved out for us fatty tourists! They were able to cook food, treat wounded and launch surprise attacks without ever really being detected...unreal. I got a chance to talk to our tour guide a bit on the ride home. His dad was a high ranking official for the south Vietnamese so he had an interesting perspective to share - he talked about issues with Communism but also had a sense of pride on the accomplishments of his countrymen and women who had built and maintained the tunnels. Later that day we found a little restaurant called Go2 that had nachos on the menu... we were very excited until they came out and were literally cool ranch doritos on a plate. LOL. Then we cruised around town a bit before heading out on an overnight bus to Nha Trang.

Day 18 ::: We arrived in Nha Trang around 7:30am after a pretty miserable night on the bus. But, it was a cute little beach town so we quickly found a guesthouse, grabbed some chocolate croissants and hit the beach!!! After hitting mostly cities, we were definitely ready for some R&R and Nha Trang hit the spot. Although it wasn't a remote location or anything, it was quite a nice beach - beautiful view, clean beach and water, umbrellas and chairs and drinks delivered to your seat - what more can you ask for? We were a little over zealous and scortched ourselves a bit and then hit local spot Shorty's for some lunch just as a big storm rolled through. We sprinted to the hotel as the rain poured down and waited out the storm. Once it cleared we explored town and made plans for a boat tour the next day. We came across a nice little bar called El Coyote that served us "welcome shots" and margaritas! That night was dinner at a spot called Red Star and then off to The Sailing Club, the somewhat swanky nightclub/bar/lounge/restaurant on the beach (think Nikki Beach). A few strong cocktails later the three of us were tearing up the dance floor (Beastie Boys!!!) with a mix of tourists and locals. We were definitely gettin our groove on... you know how I do!!! Even heard some Mylo get dropped! Met a great Argentine guy named Jaime and wound up hanging with him for a bit and then finishing the night on the beach with my travelmates and the Kiwi DJ from the club (so predictable!!).

Day 19 ::: A few weeks ago my darling friend Shirley was telling me stories about her trip to SE Asia a few years ago. One of her highlights was Mama Hahn's boat trip in Nha Trang so one of the first things we did when we arrived was look her up. Unfortunately Mama Hahn is currently in prison for her wild antics (Shirley!?!!??!) on her boat tours back in the day so we had to settle for Mama Linh's tour which was a lot of fun but somehow seemed a disappointment based on what I'd heard about the other Mama. And just to top it off, we found out that Mama Linh doesn't even live in Vietnam - she's in Philly with her American husband. HA. Anyway... boat trip was fun... we toured a number of islands, had some time to swim and snorkel and even got to enjoy a concert by the crew of our ship. Was pretty damn funny to watch the captain come out and start banging on random plastic barrels that had Yamaha scrawled on the side. And...one guy had an electric guitar. After signing songs with our fellow passengers, we all jumped into the sea for a "floating bar". We chilled on rafts and drank wine in the sun. Good times.

Day 20 ::: Beach + foot massage + driving up the coast on motos + fresh tuna sashimi = AWESOME. Huge moto burn on my leg = NOT AWESOME. We finally got the cajones to rent motos and decided to cruise up Nha Trang's equivalent of Ocean Drive. It was probably one of the best days on our trip so far - the drive was lovely and the views were simply stunning. Plus, we were finally out of the way of our fellow tourists and able to take in some quiet time away from the madness. We wound up quite a ways outside of downtown and just as we were going to turn around and head back, we came upon the Pearl Sea Restaurant. We decided to stop and have lunch before heading back and as I was getting off my moto I stepped back into another parked moto and firmly pressed my right calf against a very hot exhaust pipe. Sweet. Asked the restaurant staff for some help and they came out with this oily gel and started rubbing it on my burn. I had no idea what it was and none of them spoke English but I figured, hey, I'm in the land of motos, they must know what to do for these burns! Once the commotion was over we settled down to a fantastic meal overlooking the sea. Hilary ordered grilled fish (which they brought out flapping in the net for her to see before eating it!) and I got raw tuna with their crazy ass wasabi, which almost killed me. It was such a great meal, made even better by the best waiter ever! After cruising back to town we showered and left to catch our overnight train to Danang. Long story short... we wanted a sleeper car but were told they were sold out. So in order to get a ticket we paid 2x the actual price and that was for a regular (non-sleeper) seat. It was so crowded, so dirty and so hot.... and then we found out that the train wasn't getting to our destination at 6am as we'd been told. Of course not! We left at 8pm and would get in at 10am. Hilary and Jamie cruised the train discussing escape routes and then finally came back and told me that we could each pay MORE money (a bribe) to the train staff to get upgraded to the sleeper. Well worth it to be able to sleep and have AC although I figured there would probably be another scam. There wasn't (thank god!) and we actually met some very cool Vietnamese girls on the train in the morning who offered to tour us around their hometown!!

Day 21 ::: We got to Danang at 10am and then took an hour drive south to the little town of Hoi An, passing Marble Mountain and China Beach (US R&R location during the war made famous by the show of the same name). Taxi dropped us off just outside of the downtown b/c no cars are allowed and we walked to a guesthouse and dropped off our stuff before setting out to explore the tailor shops Hoi An is so well known for. Hilary had been told by a friend to get suits made at Thu Thuy so we went their first and got doted on by about 5 women from the shop. They gave us drinks, made some jokes and even inquired about Jamie's marital status before launching us into catalogs, fabrics and measurements. We decided on the clothes and got the prices and although they were very expensive by Vietnamese standards we agreed. It wasn't until later that day that we realized that the price of our suits was about 3x the going rate around Hoi An. Doh! We were pissed...we'd been had and they already had substantial deposits from each of us. We decided we weren't going to pay the rest - we'd make them give us the clothes for the deposit they had taken or we'd walkout and dispute the charge. We marched in there, made our demands and listened to them justify their prices (they claimed to be the best in town). We still didn't feel like getting swindled so we held our ground and after a bit of discussion were asked to speak to the boss in the morning and at least try on the clothing as we had planned to do that night. We tried the clothes and while doing so we met a guy who said an English tailor had been there earlier saying it was the best place in town and even he had his stuff made there. Oh the irony. We were so confused at this point...we'd been traveling awhile and tried to learn from past mistakes but every where you go, someone is trying to lie, cheat or steal from you. It gets old and it tiring. We figured it be best to sleep on it and decide what to do in the morning.

Day 22 ::: Popped out of bed, had breakfast, rented bikes and set off for a 5km ride to the Cua Dai Beach. It was a great ride and nice to be on a pedal bike! I spent the morning getting some rays, fighting off the vendors and keeping sand out of my moto burn. Jamie had met some guy, Wayne, in Nha Trang who recommended a restaurant for us to check out in Cua Dai (run by family of his wife) so we stopped by there and had some lunch. It was nothing more than a little beach shack but it was one of the best meals of the trip!! (I feel like this whole trip has been nothing more than one long meal.) I got the Shrimp Tamarind - made with tamarind, ginger, lemmongrass, ginger, onions, sugar and garlic. yum. yum. yum. And recipe forthcoming! Turns out that Wayne and his wife were actually in town and joined us for lunch. We told him the story of our clothing mishap and he explained that even the finest suits were much less than we had agreed to pay. On Wayne's advice, I called the shop and told them to deliver our clothes to the hotel for our deposit or that we'd dispute the charge. They were pissed and wouldn't agree. Oh well...no clothes. To be continued...we'll see what happens with the credit card company. We ended our day with a Vietnamese cooking class and a few drinks at a bar in Hoi An. Kicker of the day - we weren't able to learn the recipes for two of the dishes we ate that night b/c they are apparently only made by one family in all of Hoi An and the recipes are top secret. Our instructor told us that he and others had spent countless hours trying to crack the code, with no avail. Must be damn complicated recipes if the chefs in the "land of counterfeits" can't duplicate them.

Day 23 ::: Started the day with another bike trip to the beach for some R&R and another fine meal at Nghia. This time I kissed my fish after eating it and Jamie ate its eyeball. So gross. After getting a few cheap shirts made on a recommendation from our buddy Wayne, we hit a women's sand soccer match on the beach (apparently a special event). It was pretty awesome to see the entire town of Hoi An gather to watch all the young women play - they had fancy uniforms with sponsors and all! Not much skill, but fun to watch nonetheless. After another afternoon on the beach, we showered up and took a taxi an hour north to Danang where we checked into a guesthouse and met up with our new buddy, Ha (who we had met on our last train ride). Ha toured us around the city...we hit the promenade and saw the Han River Bridge before grabbing some delicious salmon sashimi at Hana Kim Dinh Restaurant right on the river. Post-dinner activity was a few hours of intense karaoke at a truly local spot called Lucky Karaoke. We sang New York, New York with Ha and then watched Jamie make an ass of himself singing Flashdance. Other highlights were Pump Up the Jam and I Just Called to Say I Love You. (-:

Day 24 ::: Oh the joy of flying...no more overnight bus or train for us! We hopped a lovely one hour flight from Danang to Hanoi and let me tell you... it was pure bliss! And when we arrived in Hanoi we even scored an awesome guesthouse on the first try... great spot and only $10 for the three of us. We dumped our stuff and headed up the block to check out the Tamarind Cafe which turned out to be a gem. Comfy seats, music and yummy food (I had curry quesadillas). It started to pour so we figured we'd use the rainy time to sort out our flight from Bangkok to Ko Samui, Thailand but quickly realized that not a browser in all of Hanoi would allow us to complete the transaction on Bangkok Airways' website. UGGGGGGGGGGH. We finally decided to head over to the nicest hotel in town, the Hanoi Hilton Opera to find a decent computer and presto, we're in! Thx to Nikki and Paris, we got our tickets. Our afternoon was spent cruising the streets of Hanoi's old quarter and planning our 2-day excursion to Halong Bay. Day 24 ended with a ridiculously large meal at Al Frescos, the first Mexican restaurant we'd found on our journey. Oh yeah... nachos, enchiladas, burritos and margaritas...how I love thee!

Day 25 ::: Up and out nice and early... it's road trip time. We hit the road for a three hour bus ride to Halong City, where we boarded a very nice boat equipped with dinner tables inside and sun chairs on the roof. We sailed through the limestone formations of Halong Bay for the next four hours with one stop to swim for an hour and another to explore some caves. Halong Bay is a World Heritage Site and I now know why - simply one of the most beautiful places I've seen. That night we slept in a hotel on Cat Ba Island and wound up checking out the island's only disco with our new friends, a family from New Zealand. One of the funniest nights ever! I really thought the place would be filled with tourists but it turns out that it was a real local spot packed with Vietnamese kids. I thought I was back at a 6th grade dance with the boys on one side and the girls on the other. We walked in and rushed out to the dance floor (the three twenty something Americans and a 6-year old from New Zealand) and started shaking a tail feather for all the on lookers. Then us oldies took a seat and watched the 6-year old dance his little ass off for the next hour. The Vietnamese did not know what to do ... they were stunned. Then the music ended and then they started what appeared to be Vietnamese Idol - three young guys singing their hearts out on stage... nothing but love songs. Oh man, we were dying. Talent show ended at 9pm and on came the hardest, cheesiest peak hour techno I'd ever heard.... and it was Monday... at 9pm... and nobody was on the dancefloor.... well, except the 6-year old. Finally after a track or two, I grabbed Hilary and told her we needed to help little Liam get the party started. We ran out of the floor and started working it out only to find the Vietnamese kids quickly follow suit and fill up the dancefloor. After getting a good group out there, we figured our work was done... so we left the disco all sweaty and laughed the entire way home.

Day 26 ::: Back on the boat for our return trip through Halong Bay. The weather was much better the second day so we laid out in the sun the whole way back, taking in the beautiful scenery and stopping once to jump in the water for a swim. (Well, not me... that stupid burn is in really bad shape so no water for me.) I stayed on deck, taking pictures of all the crazy boys jumping off the top deck. After docking in Halong City and having some lunch, we hit the bus for the trip back to Hanoi. When we finally arrived back in our guesthouse, I decided to unwrap my burn and take a look. Not so good. After a week of trying to speak to Vietnamese pharmacists and caring for it on my own, I finally decided it was time to see a doctor. I went over to the SOS International Clinic (a very nice place) and had my suspicions confirmed... my burn was starting to get infected. The doctor yelled at me for riding a moto and then looked at me like I had 3 heads when I showed him what I had been putting on it. Granted the bottle had no English and the person who gave it to me spoke no English either but I had showed her my moto burn and she pulled it out and gave it to me. LOL. I guess it hadn't been harming me, but it wasn't helping either. I got oral and topical antibiotics and was told no water (shower or sea) and to return tomorrow for another look before heading off to Thailand. $170 later (let's see if that traveler's insurance pays off)... I have a clean wound and some meds which is great... However, I'm a little disappointed that the next week at the beaches in Thailand will include little to no swimming and/or alcohol. Boo hoe. After the clinic we grabbed a yummy Indian meal with some fellow travelers and then hit The Funky Monkey Bar for some drinks and beats... They were even playing some relevant house music!

Day 27 ::: No trips or activities scheduled today so we finally got to sleep in!! Grabbed a quick breakfast and flagged down a taxi to check out the prison that US pose nicknamed the "Hanoi Hilton" during the war. Yet another poorly organized museum, but interesting nonetheless. They were sure to show how well the Americans were treated during their time there... And even had John McCain's pilot gear from when he was captured and detained. After the prison we checked out some more of the city - took in one of the only cathedrals we've seen during our trip, did some shopping and then chugged down some iced mochas while sitting lake-side. After cooling off a bit, we made our way to the Vietnam Museum of Revolution which turned out to be well organized and very interesting. I actually learned quite a bit about Vietnamese history... everyone from the Chinese, Mongolians, French, Japanese, and Americans have had a hand in shaping their story. All quite complicated and very sad. We made yet another stop that day...this time for more food and drink at the Diva Cafe. I had my first Avocado Shake and it was yummy! I made a return trip to the clinic for another look and dressing change and then we hit the Water Puppet Theater. I wasn't sure what to expect out of a water puppet show, but let me tell you... it was very cool! There were about 10 different scenes set to traditional Vietnamese folk music, all with different cultural significance. Apparently the art is over 1,000 years old and has its origin in the rice fields...was definitely an entertainment highlight! Our last dinner in Vietnam was at the Thuyta Cafe on the lake and then we hit Bia Hoi (fresh beer) Junction for some Vietnamese brew! I guess you can get bia hoi all over, but we decided to hit the backpackers spot, which consists of three bia hoi joints in one intersection. We pulled up a plastic seat and joined the many other backpackers and locals on the sidewalks being served 10 cent beers by a 12-yr old. Ahhhh, Vietnam.

Day 28 ::: We left Hanoi early for the airport and hopped a quick flight to Bangkok, Thailand (about 1hr, 30 min) and then another flight from Bangkok to Koh Samui (55 min), the largest of the islands on Thailand's southeast coast. For reference, the tsunami hit the islands in about the same spot, only on the west coast. The flights were lovely and believe it or not, we were fed on both legs! I'm talking a full meal.... on a 55 minute flight!?!?!? When we arrived in Koh Samui we got off the plane and drove a few minutes to the airport terminal which is tiny and mostly outdoors. Pretty damn cool collecting your luggage from baggage claim with a cool breeze at your back! We decided to spend the first night in Chewang aka party central. We found a bungalow steps from the water and quickly made the change to our swim suits. It only took me a few minutes to decide it was massage time! This time I opted for a 1-hr oil massage ON THE BEACH, which was incredible (and only $6). After some quality sun time, I hit downtown in search of the new Harry Potter, my favorite Hawaiian Tropic sunscreen, and medical supplies for my burn - came away with all three - Harry was a major score! The downtown was what I expected and more...it had Pizza Hut, McDonald's, trendy hotels and restaurants, cheesy bars and markets. Way too commercial for my taste. We went for some down and dirty (and cheap) drunkman noodles and Pad Thai that night (60 baht = $1.50) before venturing over to The Green Mango, a complex of outdoor bars and clubs. I guess it was the kind of madness Samui is famous for but definitely a little to much cheese. Everyone was running around the streets drinking liquor out of buckets (Brother Jimmy's of the Far East!), dancing to hip hop and acting a fool. We hung out for a few hours trying to be sports but I could only take so much of the young and old white men and their Thai hookers...really quite disgusting and disturbing. Had to call it a night.

Day 29 ::: Spent the day sunning, eating and reading Harry...so good! Around 3:30pm we decided we'd had enough of Koh Samui and caught a ferry to Koh Pha Ngan, another of the Thai islands. Just as we boarded the ferry a huge storm rolled in, making for a rough ride to the island. I sat downstairs on the ferry near a window (for air) but that didn't help much as I had to inhale diesel fumes and endure the rocking and the water blasting me in the face the whole time. The ferry dropped us off in Haad Rin, the most well-known part of the island and place where the famous Full Moon Parties are held. Unfortunately we missed the full moon (last week) but happened to be arriving the day of the Half Moon Party which is held in an alternate location in the mountains. We checked into the Same Same guesthouse and wandered around... was nice to be away from Samui in a much more relaxed beach town. After inhaling some pad Thai, we hit the beach and wound up meeting two young guys - one Thai and one Burmese - and challenging them to a beach volleyball match. We had a blast and played until it was pitch black outside and then decided to shower and catch a disheadingheading out to the party. We weren't sure what to expect so we left for the party relatively early (midnight), even though the party goes well into the next day. We boarded our taxi (a pickup truck with benches in the cab and a partial roof) and started to make our way on bumpy, windy, mountain roads. The trip was fine until a massive storm hit. Of course the driver didn't stop, slow down or turn around...he just kept going, while we held on for our lives in the cab of the pickup, getting pelted with massive amounts of rain. We didn't know what to do or say... we just kept looking at each other shaking our heads. We finally arrived and made our way to the party, whererevilersevelers were already getting down (most of which were crammed under the small covered areas). The mountain setting with palm trees and psychedelic decorations was pretty cool... the music was what you'd expect (psy-trance and progressive stuff) and was decent although not my bag. I guess I am a jaded NYC clubber (-: 20minutes later the rain was gone and the party continued to fill-up. Was a pretty mixed crowd...age, nationality, boozers, crackies... I stayed sober (I have a healthy fear of Thai prisons) but boogied down with Jamie and Hilary for most of the night. We stayed until about 6am and decided to head back to Haad Rin to catch the sunrise on the beach. About a few others had the same idea ...as we approached the beach, armed with our banana and nutella crapes, we found about 30 drunken Brits strewn all over the beach... one with his pants at his ankles and his hairy manhood out for all to see. What a way to start the day! Gross.

Day 30 ::: No sleep the night before so went back to the guesthouse for a nap. Three hours later we woke up and decided to head to the other side of the island where we could get some peace and quiet away from the parties and hairy asses. The beach we settled on is called Thon Nai Pan and can only be reached by long boat or jungle road. We opted for jungle road and after a bumpy ride in the back of another pickup, we had arrived in paradise. The entire beach was less than 1km in length and contained only a few sunbathers... ahhhhhh, just what the doctor ordered! After the typical guesthouse search, we wound up at The Dreamland Resort which was our best pick yet! Our bungalow was immaculate and literally a few feet from the beach...we could even hear the waves from bed! Eat, sun, nap, read Harry Potter. Repeat. Life is good.

Day 31 ::: More of the same...eat, sun, nap, read Harry Potter. In the afternoon we decided to mix it up a bit and rent a long boat for the rest of the day. We jumped on board and hit the water for a 15 minute ride to Than Sa Dej Beach, where we got out for a bit to explore the tiny beach and check out the waterfall of the same name. The waterfall was a bit of a disappointment but a fun little adventure anyway. Our next stop on the boat was Bottle Beach, another remote spot on the NE side of Koh Pha Ngan...gorgeous. We stayed there for about two hours ...had a few drinks, kicked a soccer ball around, read a bit and enjoyed the view. After we got back, I passed out in a hammock for about two hours before being awoken by cold water dumped on my head.... thanks guys! Just as we were about to venture down the beach a bit and have a meal somewhere other than our own guesthouse, a big storm rolled through and knocked the power out on the entire island. This is obviously somewhat common as all of the staff went on about their duties and seated us for dinner. The dining area was lit by gas lamps and lights (from a generator) but the kitchen remained dark. Despite the darkness, they churned out yet another fine portion of Thai Curry and Tofu, which I happily scarfed.

Day 32 ::: Another cloudy day on the island... so far the weather hasn't been great (but not that bad either). The temperature has been quite nice but we haven't been blessed with much actual sunshine. Today turned out to be the rainiest day which is fine because I had 300 pages of Harry left to read and a hammock calling my name. After reading most of the morning enjoyed some delicious stir-fry fish with ginger and pineapple for lunch and then kept on going... by 4pm I had finished the entire book (new record for me) and was already craving book #7! Naptime, computer time, dinner time. This is fun for me... but I'm guessing pretty boring for you (suckers!).

Day 33 ::: Finally, some sunshine on Koh Pha Ngan! Jamie left early (he's headed to Hong Kong for a few days) and Hilary and I got some sun, had a final meal at Dreamland and then set off by pickup truck, ferry and plane to Bangkok. After quickly finding a place to stay we grabbed some dinner and decided to hit Patpong, the "red light district" for a crazy night out. We walked the streets a bit, checking out the markets and the various strip clubs (from a far)...one of which was named "Pussy Collection" - very creative! OMG. After wandering for a bit we found a street of bars that looked somewhat interesting and then quickly realized we'd found the gay section of Bangkok. How has it taken me this entire trip to figay boysgayboys!?!?! I'm not quite sure but it must have been fate because Hilary and I wanted a crazy night out (sorry Jamie) and we found it! It started at a cute little lounge called Cafe 4, where we had a few cocktails and started to get our boogie on with some really cute gay boys. Before you know it, we have 10 new friends and I'm swing dancing with the most vein boy in there (I'm leading of course!). Around midnight people started to leave and the waiters told us that everyone would be heading to DJ Station, a three floor dance club that would stay open a few more hours. So....of course, we were off to DJ Station! As soon as we got to the door we were stopped by the bouncers and told we couldn't enter because we were wearing flipflops. We were livid! In the country where you can pile 5 people on a tiny motorbike, you can't wear flipflops to a club!?!? So....of course, we went and bought shoes on the street. Not just any shoes either... we each got a pair of ridiculously horribly fabulous shoes that would be the topic of conversation for the rest of the night (Hilary got a pink pair with strawberries and I got some blue jelly-like sneakers). And all for just 198 baht! ($2.50 each). More importantly... we walked back up to the bouncers, showed him our new kicks and strolled right in! Then we had to "check" our flipflops... oh it just kept getting better. We cruised into the club, found many of our new friends and made about 10 more. Within no time we were workin it all over the three floors. I actually met a very cool guy named Arash from Iran. In between drinks, dancing and the rest of the night's debauchery, we talked at length about his life story which he hopes to have published. After a few hours, DJ Station closed and so we decided.... to find another party. We had met an older German guy who knew about some underground disco that would rage on all night... so... of course... we went. It was basically a restaurant converted into a disco filled with young locals getting their party on. We ordered a bottle of Thai whiskey (yup, bottle service in Bangkok!) and drank and partied some more before finally getting creeped out by the German and heading home at 4am. What made it even better was that I had blood streaming down my non-burn leg in two places... ahhh, the universal sign for a good night out ... blood and bruises and no idea how you got them! LOL. (Attn: Mom --small scrapes, I am fine).

Day 34 ::: Woke up late feeling a queasy from the night before. Did some final shopping, eating, emailing and relaxing. Wow, can't believe it's the last day of the trip! )-:

Day 35 ::: The longest day ever... we leave Bangkok at 8:30am, fly to Hong Kong and then to NYC. We won't arrive until 10pm NYC time (which is about 12 hours behind HK).

It's been an amazing five weeks... but it will be good to be home and see you all before I leave for Chicago. See you this weekend!
xoxox
W

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